Banff National Park

Town of Banff

The small mountain resort town of Banff is one of the major tourist attractions of the park. If you are going to stay overnight in the park, this is probably where you are going to be unless you are camping. It has everything the tourist wants, accommodations, restaurants, gift shops and tour organizers. With all that comes elevated prices but that’s to be expected in any place built to support tourists. It’s definitely worth a visit, even if it’s just to look around or to grab a meal after a hike. There are some free things in town like the Cascade of Time Gardens on the south end of town.

Lake Louise, Lake Agnes, Little Beehive and Big Beehive

What a wonderful hike! This was a combination of a few different trails that I put together and it turned out to be a challenging day hike but also one that provided those classic views of Lake Louise that you see in those expensive advertisements. If you want to visit Lake Louise then you should definitely plan to get there early in the day. I arrived at 9am and had to circle the parking lot a few times before I could get a spot. They have an offsite parking lot with a shuttle but I have found the hours restricting if you are planning a big hike that might not get back in time for the last shuttle – there are no taxis out there!

Starting at Lake Louise, which is usually crowded – rightfully so, it is absolutely beautiful – take the trail towards the Lake Agnes Tea House. Tea House, you say? Yes, there are a couple of back-country tea houses out here. No electricity, no WiFi, just nature and a nice cup of tea and fresh baked snacks at 2,100+ meters (7,000′). I branched off to visit the Little Beehive first and got some wonderful views of Lake Louise, until a long-tailed weasel ran across the trail and scared the ___ out of me! Well, I think I scared it just as much going by it’s squeal. After visiting Little Beehive I headed to the Tea House and although busy, it was nice to take a break and enjoy a “civilized” snack before continuing on. However, you should be aware that they ask you to pack out your garbage, not a problem for hikers but the casual visitor may be surprised by the request and lack of garbage cans. (TIP: don’t buy bottled water, Lake Agnes is fine to drink from.) From the Tea House it is not far (but uphill) to Big Beehive and then down the backside, coming out at the southwest end of Lake Louise.

Castle Lookout

Up, up and more up! This trail through the forest is beautiful but it is also a constant climb, well, until you come back, then it’s all downhill. Funny how that is and it appears to be a constant theme with many mountain trails. 🙂
There is a waterfall but you need to go a little off trail and scramble a bit to see it, but the highlight of the trip is definitely the lookout. What an awesome 180 degree view! Plenty of room to have a snack or a picnic and the Golden-mantled Ground Squirrels know this too. Just as cute as chipmunks, and they look similar, but please don’t feed them. Human food isn’t good for them and if we feed them, then they lose the skills to forage for those times when we are not there.
A great hike, but tell people it was the awesome view at the lookout that took your breath away, not the steady incline.

Mistaya Canyon

This can be a nice short walk to the canyon with the option for a longer trails if you want. It is a short downhill walk through the forest from the parking lot to the canyon. For many that is all that they will do, go down to the canyon, take some pictures and then complain about how steep the path is to get back to the car. 🙂
However, once you get to the bottom there are some nice hiking trails. I have only gone a short way on one of the trails but it did offer a few nice views through the trees but for myself, I really enjoyed the feeling of being in an isolated forest. Perhaps because Mistaya Canyon is better known as a tourist spot and not a hiking trailhead the trails are less used.
The canyon itself is spectacular, seeing how water has cut through the rocks over the years. I’ve never found a good way to take pictures of these canyons, so hopefully you will get a chance to see them for yourself.

Bow Glacier Falls Trail

I was not expecting to do a hike on this day. I was just driving through the park one Spring day and thought I would go look at Num-Ti-Jah lodge on the banks of Bow Lake. Needless to say the trail was calling my name and off I went, no hat, no water bottle, but I did have bear spray!
You stay level for most of the trial, and the only real hill has stairs, well technically they are stairs (see picture), but as you get closer to the falls the path disperses and you are on your own to navigate the open rock field. Easy to see your destination, you just need to try and find a path through all the multi-coloured rocks. No, you can’t take any rocks home with you!
You do not get to see the actual glacier but you see the waterfall and then follow the water back as it flows into Bow Lake. I always like to see the connections in nature. Bow Glacier, creates Bow Glacier Falls, which creates a stream feeding Bow Lake, which is the source for the Bow River, which flows through Calgary and beyond. Nature is amazing.

Bow Summit Lookout Trail

Another trail that I had not set out to do. I was just going to see Peyto Lake but those darn trail signs lure me in (hence, the start marker on the below map is so late). It’s a short hike but the elevation can be a butt kicker if you aren’t used it. Most of the time you are on a dirt fire-road, which gives you plenty of room to stumble around as you gawk at the magnificent views. These are the views to see in books, with the mountain ranges going to the horizon. This means you have to be cautious of at least two things. 1) Don’t walk off the mountain as you stare at the views; and 2) watch were you step as I almost stepped on a friendly marmot that came to greet me. Not sure if it was looking for a handout (I don’t feed the wildlife) or just to see what was causing this two-legged animal (me) to be huffing and puffing so hard. I definitely needed more time in the gym!

Sulphur Mountain Trail

There are two common ways to get to the top of Sulphur Mountain. Most people pay to take the gondola to the top but there is also a trail that follows much the same path (with plenty of switchbacks). It’s a heavily used, and abused, trail so you will often come across others on the trail. It’s a trail not just used by hikers but by non-hikers as well. Lots of signs to stay on the trail – as many people have decided to take short cuts, which promotes erosion, and unfortunately, more litter than on most other trails. Some people take the gondola up the mountain but decide to take the trail down. For those that do hike up, if you ask nicely, they might let you ride the gondola down for free but I think this depends upon the season. Always best to ask politely and smile. 🙂
Once you get to the top you mix with all the gondola riders as you go over to the Cosmic Ray Station on Sanson’s Peak on the boardwalk. Lots of interpretive sign on the boardwalk along with great views on a clear day. The gondola station also has a restaurant and a gift shop – how often can you buy souvenirs while hiking?

Arnica Lake Trail

There are only a few weeks in the fall that you can see the Golden Larches and I was lucky enough to find a great trail on a wonderful clear day. Like many of the trails in the mountains it’s uphill until you get to your destination. This trail is no exception except it tries to get you UP faster than many. Take your time and most able bodied folks in good condition can get to Arnica Lake in about 2 hours. Vista Lake is your starting point, I don’t think I saw any signs for Arnica Lake, and follow the trail signs towards Twin Lakes. Most day hikes stop at Arnica Lakes but the backpackers go the extra hour to Twin Lakes for the campground there. [PSA: No facilities at the Vista Lake trailhead, but you can go just a little south to the Continental Divide pullout that has an outhouse, if needed.]
The trail is mostly in a wooded area but you do start to see some great views as you climb. Both lakes, Vista and Arnica, are so calming, you just sit by them for hours and forget about the rest of the world.

Boom Lake Trail

I wanted to get a quick hike in before the snow started to fall in the mountains and this was a great choice. Not too long or steep, but lots of little critters coming out to say hello, the leaves changing colours and the serenity of an isolated mountain lake. Actually, glad I hit this trail in the morning as there was a constant stream of people heading up the path in the afternoon and some with their fly-fishing gear. This trail is a forest trail, so don’t expect those vast views of mountain ranges and valleys, which is probably good as there are so many roots you have to step over, you don’t want too many distractions. However, it is extremely peaceful and I always wonder how many animals have spotted me (squirrels, weasels, deer, etc.) but managed to stay hidden just a few feet from the trail.
Boom Lake has crystal clear water, you can easily see down 5m (~15′) as if it was a few inches, so don’t go thinking you can just wade in ankle deep, it’s much deeper (and colder) than you probably think. 🙂
Some light rain was moving in, which made this the quintessential Autumn hike to reflect on what a beautiful planet we live on and how lucky I am to see these wondrous places.

Taylor Lake Trail

I had often passed this large parking area on the highway and guessed it was one of the overflow parking lots for Lake Louise. Turns out it is the Taylor Lake trailhead and it can be a popular trail. Luckily for me it was not busy this day, surprising since it was the Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend. It’s a nice forest trail with a steady incline but nothing bad and not that long. Most people could do the hike in about 4 hours. It was a crisp Fall day, around 3C (37F) and the forecast was just for cloudy skies.
A little frost in spots at the start but as I climbed there was a little more, then a light snow started near the top. Got some pictures in of the lake and waterfall, looked away for a moment, then back at the lake to see a snowsquall coming in quick. Pulled out my heavier jacket and gloves, then ducked into the trees to wait it out. Didn’t last long but left a nice dusting of new snow on everything. I have to admit that I do enjoy hiking in the winter, everything is just more tranquil. The crunch of snow under your feet, the crisp air, and the animal trails are easy to spot – you are never truly alone in the forest.

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Banff National Park is the park most people think of when they talk about the Canadian Rocky Mountains, and it is absolutely beautiful and well maintained – thank you Parks Canada. Less than 2 hours west of Calgary it is a great destination for a day trip, or where to start a multi-day trip some magnificent and majestic mountains. Probably a little more crowded than the other parks but if you get up early you can get yourself a parking spot (usually) at your trailhead. Getting parking around Lake Louise is usually a challenge so look into the seasonal buses from Calgary or the Park & Ride lot south of Lake Louise. Whatever you decide to see or do in Banff, remember that you are in nature and it is our responsibility to also protect nature. Leave no trace, do not feed the animals and drive slowly. You never know what you will see near the road – I have spotted Mule deer, Big Horn Sheep, black bears, and grizzly bears all while driving.
Most of all, take the time to realize how lucky you are to see such wonderful displays of nature.

Cheers, Nigel