2016 Scotland (Highlands)

The Scottish Highlands, the land of beauty, mystery and monsters! Much has been written about these lands and I even have some Scottish heritage, so it was time to explore. This trip was scheduled to be mainly easy hikes, about 6 miles/day with minimal elevation change, with a couple of longer optional hikes, all promising wonderful views of land and water. I knew I would not be seeing a great deal of wildlife but what all the advertisements and tourist information forget to mention are the midges. Yes, I traveled during midge season and I paid the price, my forearms still look like I hugged a porcupine. For those that have never experienced the joy of the midge, think of this: they are the size of a fruit fly, have the bite of a mosquito and travel in blood thirsty swarms. I don’t think the Lock Ness Monster is hiding from humans, I think she stays underwater to avoid the midges! These are vicious creatures, that leave both physical and mental scares. If you have ever experienced the midge, then you are probably scratching right now.

OK, let’s talk about something much nicer about this trip, the Scotch Whisky, called Scotch to many but it’s just called Whisky in Scotland. I am normally a beer drinker but on this trip it’s time to step it up and try some of the best of the best and learn about it’s history.

The trip itinerary starts with a night in Inverness, then over to the Outer Hebrides for 3 nights before heading back to the mainland with one night in Fort Augustus and then the last three nights in Aviemore. A good sampling of the Highlands history, beauty and damn midges.

Inverness (2 Nights)

I was travelling with a friend on this trip and we decided to arrive a day early to Inverness as the trip itinerary did not have any scheduled time in the city and, well, international air travel is always subject to delays, so best to arrive early. This way you have time to see anything of particular interest, get over any jet lag or deal with any travel issues.  OK, yes, I had to go shopping as I brought a two prong electric adapter and they use the three prong plug. Good thing I found a three prong electric adapter in the Poundland Store (yes, it was only one pound Sterling).

Needless to say, we did both arrive in Inverness as scheduled, we met up in the UK Immigration line in Heathrow. TIP: If you think a 3 hour layover in Heathrow is enough time to get through UK Immigration, well, think again. We got to our domestic connecting gate just before they started boarding. (Internal connections are not that bad, but for non-EU visitors connecting to a domestic flight is a challenge of the patience.)

Inverness is a beautiful city and small enough to easily walk around in. The type of city that everyone pictures that they want to live in. All the modern shops (for good and for bad), plus all the old world charm and everyone I talked to was extremely friendly and welcoming. We explored the city centre the first day and just wandered on our own.

Our first full day in Inverness and the day we meet the rest of our travelling group, but not until we make another quick walk around town and find some haggis to try. Then it’s back to the hotel, quick introduction and we are off to the afternoon at  Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. What better way to start the trip than heading to Loch Ness, enjoy the beautiful grounds, learn some history and maybe find a legendary monster.

Outer Hebrides (3 Nights)

An early morning start in order to drive out to Ullapool to catch the 2.5 hour ferry ride to Stornoway on the Outer Hebrides. We must have been the only people on the ferry to not have a pet dog but amazingly they were all well behaved. Getting off the ferry shortly after lunch we head to our first hike, well, more of a walk as it was barely a mile but very scenic and we got our first taste of Highland rain.

Hike #1

Distance 0.66km (0.41 miles) (This is only half the trail as I forgot to start logging)

Elevation Change 21m (71 feet)

​

We made two more historic stops before heading down to our hotel in Tarbert for the next three nights. The first stop was at Dun Carloway which I would have enjoyed more if it wasn’t for our first real introduction to the … midge. Historians don’t know the real purpose of Dun Carloway or similar double walled buildings but they definitely don’t defined against those swarming little pests. Swat, swat, swat, let’s get outta here. Back to the vans, away from the midges and off to the Calanais Standing Stones. These standing stones are something to see and due to their remote location, you are still allowed to approach and touch the stones. Erected over 5,000 years ago for an unknown reason but interestingly there were no midges here!

A day of hikes by the water. The first being along three lochans (small lochs) with wonderful views of waterfalls and different shades of purple heather. The second, and much shorter hike, would take us from a wonderful beach to wonderful views of the coastline. I found it great weather for hiking, a little cool and overcast but no rain. If this is as bad as the weather gets on the trip then I have nothing to complain about.  🙂

Today sounded like it was going to be a great day, a visit to a local beach and then a quick visit to see one of the last 200 people that make Harris Tweed (this is the Isles of Harris after all) in the morning, then a picnic lunch on the coast and the option, for some, to ascend a local high point called Toe Head. The previous night our guides told us that the weather forecast did not look good and hence would probably not attempt Toe Head. The weather in the morning was pretty overcast and the entire group headed out for the day.

When we first approached Toe Head, well, you couldn’t see the top of it, as the clouds had moved in. However, during our picnic lunch on the coast the weather had moved on and everything was looking clear. Four of us, plus a guide, headed up Toe Head while the others went out towards another beach.  There is no trail up Toe Head so it’s a matter of following sheep trails and making your own path. About a third of the way up we saw some heavy clouds and rain headed our way, and it was coming quickly. Just enough time to hide behind a rock, get the rain gear on and hide the camera in a waterproof bag. The winds started to whale (our guide estimated 80 kph/50 mph, gusting to 95 kph/60 mph), the rain going vertical and the visibility down to 20-30 meters (20-30 yards), all while trying to ascend this muddy and boggy hill.  Ohhh what fun! Making it to the top we were lucky to get wonderful views of … the inside of the clouds, while we stood in yet another bog. Heading down the other side of the hill meant that we were out of the wind and rain, and once we descended below the cloud line we were granted with some nice views of the beach.

Hike #4

Distance 7.45km (4.63 miles)

Elevation Change 402m (1,319 feet)

​

After this hike it was time for a little culture with a visit to St. Clement’s Church and a good seafood dinner.

Fort Augustus (1 Night)

On this day we left the Outer Hybrides and took the ferry (100 minutes) to the Isle of Skye, where we would get in a short hike before spending the night in Fort Augustus. I realize it is cliché but I have just one word to describe the Cuith Raing area and the trail we did and that is … WOW! Absolutely beautiful views and nothing like I have seen in any of my other travels. My only regret is the short amount of time that we had and we could only go out a short way before needing to turn back and get back on the road.

Hike #5

Distance 2.87km (1.78 miles)

Elevation Change 126m (416 feet)

​

I do want to give a special shout-out to The Lovat hotel in Fort Augustus, a beautiful four star boutique hotel that is also very eco-friendly. All the luxuries that you expect with much less impact on the environment. The more travelers that frequent green-tourism establishments the better we will all be.  🙂

Cairngorm (3 Nights)

For the last three nights of the trip we stayed in a beautiful Victorian lodge within Cairngorm National Park, just a short drive from Aviemore. The first day here starts off with a tour of the Tomatin whisky distillery, a whisky tour first thing in the morning, well, if we must.  🙂

After lunch we went on a very enjoyable hike through the park and passed through Loch Garten and Loch Mallachie. This is the first heavily forested area we have hiked through and unfortunately we learn that the fearful midge also habitats the forests.  Is there no place safe from these miniature vampires?

Hike #6

Distance 7.42km (4.61 miles)

Elevation Change 85m (281 feet)

​

On this day we had a full day hike, nothing too difficult but long and the weather did not want to play nice. Drizzling rain most of the day and then whenever we would stop we would be, uhmm, encouraged to keep moving by the swarms of midge that would come out of nowhere to devour us. After the hike we were lucky enough to get a demonstration of sheep herder working with his dogs.  The skill and coordination of these dogs was something special to watch, and the midge count was low!

Hike #7

Distance 13.21km (8.21 miles)

Elevation Change 212m (697 feet)

​

Our time is Scotland is coming to an end but we had the option of one more challenging hike. A gentle walk through the forest on a service road, stopping at times to make sure the midge had another chance to feast on us, until we stopped for a picnic lunch inside a cabin without midge. Then we had the option, summit the peak of Meall a’ Bhuachaille or go for an alternate hike. OK, we all know my ego made sure I did the summit. The skies were clear but the wind was picking up and made it even more challenging. The climb was well worth the effort as the views were stunning from the top. A complete 360 degree view which the camera could not do justice to.

Hike #8

Distance 12.67km (7.88 miles)

Elevation Change 594m (1,948 feet)

​

​

Time to leave and although the Inverness airport is small, it doesn’t mean that they don’t have long, slow moving lines. It’s been a good trip to the Scottish Highlands, fantastic scenery, some challenging hikes and some excellent whisky!

Logistics

There were 12.1 of us on the trip (5.1 men, 7 women, plus 2 guides) with everyone being of good physical condition and capable of doing all the hikes. Travel was done in two 9-passenger vans and was comfortable for our group.

Why do I say 12.1 people on this trip? Well, the friend I was travelling with received a call the day we landed in Inverness and had to return home due to a family emergency. He spent a lot of money for 36 hours in Inverness so hopefully he will be able to get some of his money back. On the positive side, I didn’t have to listen to his snoring any more and I got a room to myself without having to pay a single supplement.  🙂

This trip, organized by Mountain Travel Sobek (MTS), was a 9 day itinerary that they called Hiking Wild Scotland. We met our group on Friday at noon in Inverness and quickly headed out on our journey.

A couple of clothing tips for anyone coming to this area wanting to do similar activities. Bring waterproof hiking boots, not hiking shoes as you will probably be walking through bogs at some point and also probably in the rain. This brings up the second suggestion, and that is to invest in some good rain gear. Good chance of rain and wind, sometimes a very strong wind, so make sure you are prepared to keep you and your gear dry.

Cheers, Nigel